Christine Sews

Attaching a neckband to a t-shirt style knit can look intimidating.  But it is actually a straightforward technique.  Using the right stitch settings and equipment can make it even easier.

How to Attach a T-Shirt Neckband:

1. Carefully cut and mark your pattern pieces.  The neckband should be 80 - 90 percent the length of the neck opening measurement.
2. Sew the neckband together at the short edges.  Fold in half lengthwise.
3. Line up your pattern pieces at the marks.  If your pattern does not have markings, use the quarter pin method .  Shirt should be right side out.  Cut edges will line up together with the folded edge facing away from the opening.
4. Set your sewing machine to a stretch stitch.  Attach a lightweight presser foot, suitable for knits. Make certain that you are using a knit needle.
5. Stretch gently, keeping the cut edges aligned and sew around the neck opening, attaching the band to the body of the t-shirt.
6. Fold the collar into place.  Press gently with an iron if your fabric will tolerate it.  If not, just finger press.
7. Topstitch on the shirt, securing the collar in place.

Sewing Tips and Notes:

• It is difficult to serge the neckband onto the body of the shirt without cutting away too much fabric. If you do decide to try it, cut the neckband piece wide.  And practice on a few scrap pieces before trying it on your t-shirt.
• This is the neckband for Vogue Pattern V8151.  See the pattern review here .
• The thermal knit shown came from my fabric stash.  I got it months ago from the $1.95 clearance bin at Fabric.com .  If I had made the shirt with a smooth double knit or jersey, it could be worn under a blazer, instead of looking like a pajama.
• The rippling at the collar could be eliminated if I had used a smaller size, or a different type of fabric.  (I’ll probably do both when I make the pattern again.)
• I prefer to attach knit neckbands using a small zig-zag (the stretch stitch on my sewing machine) and then a straight stitch to secure the edges and make the band flat.  A twin-needle, serger or any number of other techniques can be used.

I am very pleased with my first experience with a Vogue Pattern.  I purchased a few Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina patterns last week.  And over the weekend and this morning, was able to complete the top V8151, view B.

View B is a basic tee shirt /shell pattern.  My measurements fall between two sizes.  I was torn between using the larger size, or the smaller because it is a knit.  I decided on the larger size as the master - for shoulders and upper chest dimensions, but attempted to draw and cut between the  two sizes.

As mentioned many times during the alteration process description, I am 5′4″.  I pretty much always have to shorten the pattern at the waist.  But I do not always need to shorten the sleeve cap and upper chest.  As it turns out, I should have this time.  And I could have used the smaller size altogether.

Had this been a Butterick pattern, I suspect the larger size would have been the best choice.  I have used Butterick patterns for years, and am more familiar with the fit model (also pattern block) and how it varies from my body.

Hands down, the best thing about this pattern is the dart.  I didn’t have to add a dart, which is something I end up doing with knit patterns quite a lot.  A flat front without dart is just not flattering on me.

The other thing that really stands out about the pattern for me is that the alteration instructions are right there in the pattern, with diagrams.  I don’t usually see alteration instructions in the patterns I purchase.  And I’m sure I’ve never seen them with diagrams.  That’s part of the reason why I have so many sewing books.

I also made this pattern smaller in the upper arms, and at the high waist.  I am definitely going to make it again, with higher quality fabric.  And with a shorter sleeve cap and upper chest adjustment.

Next up, attaching a tee-shirt style neck band.  And another Vogue Pattern.  Which one will depend on what fabric I have available in my fabric stash.

I tried out this great fitting tip from Sandra Betzina: Draw two lines through the bust point. Split the pattern open. Adjust to fit the bust and waist.

You can see that the original pattern is laying on top of my favorite pattern making paper, packing paper. I have marked it with my favorite marker, water soluble pens that I share with my four year old, straight from the coloring book section of the grocery. (Those are my money saving tips for the post.)

In performing this alteration, I somehow managed to overlook the fact that I had just dropped the waist, which I had raised, back down to its original location. And the armscye was too small.

An alteration gone horribly wrong. Or maybe not so much. I made it in cheap muslin, tried it on, and could have adjusted the armscye. But decided that I don’t like the neckline - too high and not so flattering - and really didn’t want to go to more effort. So I chucked it out.

I haven’t given up on the Sandra Betzina tips though. I have three of her books, and all have helped me tremendously.

Instead of messing around with the wonky pattern, I bought some Today’s Fit patterns at Joann’s and have been really pleased with the instructions. I am hopeful that the patterns will sew up just as nicely. I bought a shell pattern, partly because I have been happy with the Sandra Betzina books, and partly because the blouse has a dart and neckline that looks flattering.

I need some blouses to go with my newly remodeled trench coat and pants .

Do you have a pair of pants that fit in the waist and bottom, but the thighs are enormous?  Want to get rid of the clown pant look?  A simple alteration can fix them for you, and very quickly.

How to Alter Pants for Thin Thighs:

1. Turn the offending pants inside out and put them on.  Yes, put them on inside out.
2. Get a water soluble marker, or chalk and draw a line where you hand and the pen fall naturally, which should be about the top of the thigh.
3. Make a second line on the same pant leg at the knee.
4. If you are right handed, do steps 2 and 3 on the right side.  If left handed, mark the left leg.
5. Take off the pants and place your marks in matching positions on the opposite leg.  Make additional marks on the inside knee position, opposite the original knee marks.



6. Machine baste from the top outer mark to the knee mark.  Start at the top mark, veering in to take up as much extra fabric as needed.  Then when you get to the knee mark, veer toward the seam line smoothly.  Repeat on the other leg.
7. Baste from the inner knee mark down to the hem line.  Repeat on the opposite leg.  (If you don’t do this; the pants will twist.)
8. Try on the pants to see if you have taken in the pants enough. Repeat the basting until it looks right.
9. Once you are satisfied with the results, permanently stitch the alteration in place.

Sewing Tips and Notes:

• This is an adjustment for women who tend to gain weight in their waist, not hips and thighs.  It can be used with mixed results with men who also gain at the waist.
• Pants will often drape strangely if the pant legs are too big.  Take in 1/2 to 1/4 inch at a time during the basting process to adjust.  When the pant legs are straight and don’t look huge you have it right.
• Pants shown are two different pairs of velour yoga pants.  But this alteration actually looks even better on woven pants.  I just forgot to take photos when I marked and altered those.

Once again, my apologies for mediocre photography.  It seems that no matter what I learn about photographing fabric, a new challenge will appear.