Christine Sews

At our house Spring cleaning is actually seasonal cleaning.  We rotate all the out of season clothing into Rubbermaid containers and then get them out as the weather changes.  This Fall, instead of just the usual Oh, I’m so glad I kept this, and Why did I keep this and toss to the thrift store pile, I have a new thought.  Oh, this could be a pajama.  And this can be cropped.  And this one can be a little girls dress.

I’m really pleased with what I’ve learned from the Wardrobe Refashion project.  Everything that has shrunk or become worn around the edges now seems to have possibilities beyond the thrift store pile.

So far, I’ve cropped a pair of my pants that had shrunk up into high-waters to a more fashionable length.  And I’ve converted a shirt of mine into a long sleeve pajama for DD.  I did basically the same thing to make the pajama as I did to make the girls pajama with The Tick.  Except I reattached three-quarter sleeves.  I just winged it drawing the armscye and sleeve cap.

I cut out a dress for DD from one of DH’s dress shirts, sort of according Dana’s shirt dress pattern at Made.  I say sort of, because I just looked at her pattern and then went for it.  I’ll update how it turns out.

I’m also seeing new possibilities for my work clothes that are just laying around.  A lot of them have become frayed at the edges and can be made into fancy clothes for DD for the holiday season.  I’m usually disgusted with the offerings for little girls clothes.  Why must they be tacky or over-priced.  I think I see a solution.

This vintage doll dress pattern, Butterick 4638, was given to us by a friend whose children have grown up. I think it may also have been given to her. It was quite old - not sure how old - and uncut. This made for an interesting vintage sewing learning experience.

How to Identify a Vintage Pattern:

1. Examine the pattern.  Modern patterns created and distributed in the United States typically show labels and pattern markings in English, with smaller sub-texts in Spanish and French.  They usually also include instructions with complete translations to Spanish and French, or only to Spanish if they are for U.S. distribution only.  (If you have a U.S. manufactured pattern in English and French only, it was likely intended for distribution in the U.S. and Canada.)  This sewing pattern is marked in English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.  Instructions are in English only.
2. Cut lines of modern patterns are usually denoted with a medium sized line, inside of which is a dashed seam allowance line. The vintage pattern has one, very dark cut line.  The seam allowance is mentioned in the instructions, but is not marked on the pattern pieces.
3. Seam allowance on most U.S. patterns is 5/8″ .  This pattern uses 1/4″ seam allowance, which is mentioned in the instructions, not marked with a dashed line on the pattern pieces.  (This is possibly because it is a doll clothing pattern.)
4. Pattern views are not identified with letters. Instead of a line drawing of View A, Coat, the instructions just say Coat and assume you know which photograph and pattern pieces go to the coat.  Technically speaking, the dress shown here is the coat.

Sewing Tips and Notes:

• While researching this article, I found very little information about identifying and dating vintage sewing patterns.  These are my own observations.  I can say with absolute certainty that I have never used or seen a Butterick pattern like this.
• Short of contacting Butterick, I will probably not know what year this pattern was created.  I did try to look it up.  If you happen to know how to research this information more effectively, please leave me a comment about it.
• This pattern did not include in the instructions any basic technique information, such as how to clip curves , what type of fabric to use and how to cut it .  Pressing and grading were not mentioned once.  Sewing skills are assumed.

Sometimes all that is needed to make a piece of clothing perfect is a simple hem.  This cashmere blazer fit perfectly, except for the sleeves which were a bit short.  It had belonged to my grandmother, who I discovered with the exception of being four inches shorter than me, was exactly the same size.

So, I carefully removed the existing sleeve hem from this lovely jacket. Pressed it, and then dropped it down an inch.  I then pressed it again, in the new position so that the fabric would shift around less while I stitched it in place.  Then I used a very simple slip stitch to secure the lining to the cashmere blend shell.

Excellent.  Now a visit to the dry cleaner is all that the jacket requires before it accompanies me on my trip to New York.

Also coincidentally, this jacket is nearly identical to one that has been in my own closet for years.  But that poor jacket got eaten by moths.  Still, I love it.  I purchased it on my one trip to Italy, and have been holding on to it, trying to think of how to reconstruct it sans moth holes.   Hmm, maybe its twin needs a hat.

Aprons can be fun to make and wear.  But what if the standard free pattern just isn’t your style?  And how can it be made to look good?  Read on for sewing tips and customizations.

Some of these tips are general.  Some will be more helpful if you are, say, short and usually in need of darts.

How to Sew and Customize an Apron Pattern:

1. Lay out a pattern piece, or an actual apron on your fabric. Print should run vertically or diagonally if you could stand to lose a few pounds, as shown.
2. Use a hard curve to cut out the armscye evenly.  If you are 5′4″ or shorter, reduce the length of the armscye.
3. The standard apron has a straight bodice.  Cut a curve, v-neck or any other shape that is most flattering to you.  Fold the fabric in half to make it symmetrical if necessary.
4. Cut straps at least four inches wide, and as long as necessary.
5. Turn the strap .
6. Take a snip out of the end of the strap to help the fabric lay flat, similar to mitering pocket corners . Tuck in and stitch closed.
7. Clip curves and press in place.
8. Set your sewing machine to a short stitch (2.5 on a Singer shown). Sew curves.
9. Turn back and press straight edges and stitch.
10. Attach straps.
11. Hem.  A blind hem often looks best.

Sewing Tips and Notes:

• This pattern is simple and can be spliced across the waist or high waist to alter the pattern or use two different fabrics.
• Pockets and ruffles can also be fun.
• Unless you must adhere to a dress code, I don’t recommend making aprons in white, or other light solid colors.