Christine Sews

This vintage doll dress pattern, Butterick 4638, was given to us by a friend whose children have grown up. I think it may also have been given to her. It was quite old - not sure how old - and uncut. This made for an interesting vintage sewing learning experience.

How to Identify a Vintage Pattern:

1. Examine the pattern.  Modern patterns created and distributed in the United States typically show labels and pattern markings in English, with smaller sub-texts in Spanish and French.  They usually also include instructions with complete translations to Spanish and French, or only to Spanish if they are for U.S. distribution only.  (If you have a U.S. manufactured pattern in English and French only, it was likely intended for distribution in the U.S. and Canada.)  This sewing pattern is marked in English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.  Instructions are in English only.
2. Cut lines of modern patterns are usually denoted with a medium sized line, inside of which is a dashed seam allowance line. The vintage pattern has one, very dark cut line.  The seam allowance is mentioned in the instructions, but is not marked on the pattern pieces.
3. Seam allowance on most U.S. patterns is 5/8″ .  This pattern uses 1/4″ seam allowance, which is mentioned in the instructions, not marked with a dashed line on the pattern pieces.  (This is possibly because it is a doll clothing pattern.)
4. Pattern views are not identified with letters. Instead of a line drawing of View A, Coat, the instructions just say Coat and assume you know which photograph and pattern pieces go to the coat.  Technically speaking, the dress shown here is the coat.

Sewing Tips and Notes:

• While researching this article, I found very little information about identifying and dating vintage sewing patterns.  These are my own observations.  I can say with absolute certainty that I have never used or seen a Butterick pattern like this.
• Short of contacting Butterick, I will probably not know what year this pattern was created.  I did try to look it up.  If you happen to know how to research this information more effectively, please leave me a comment about it.
• This pattern did not include in the instructions any basic technique information, such as how to clip curves , what type of fabric to use and how to cut it .  Pressing and grading were not mentioned once.  Sewing skills are assumed.

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